Maison des Peupliers

Formerly: Maison Whiteridge (2009–2012)

Founded: 25 March 2009

Founder: Amelia Whiteridge, OBE

Headquarters: Paris, France

Industry: Haute Couture, Luxury Fashion

Key People:

• Amelia Whiteridge – Creative Director & Founder

• Isabelle Damrosch – CEO

• Henri Vallois – CFO

• Camille Hutter – Director of International Partnerships

Ownership:

• 60% Amelia Whiteridge

• 20% Kominsky Global Holdings (KGH)

• 20% [Undisclosed investors via Azimuth Equity AG, Zurich]

🕊️ Background & History

Maison des Peupliers began its life as Maison Whiteridge, a sole-venture label from haute-couture designer Amelia Whiteridge, launched in 2009 after her studies in Montpellier. The brand quickly gained traction for its stark, spiritually infused collections that blurred fashion, liturgy, and emotional austerity.

However, in late 2012, a BBC Panorama exposé aired alleging the brand had exploited vulnerable young models, some underage, during late-night fittings and unpaid campaign work to gain quick notoriety. Though no criminal charges were filed, the backlash led to public condemnation and industry changes. The house was temporarily shuttered.

In response, Amelia restructured the business, issued a single handwritten statement:

She renamed the house Maison des Peupliers, inspired by a childhood memory of a tree-lined path outside a Catholic orphanage.

🧵 Major Collections

1. Liturgy in Silk (2013)

   A haunting return to form. The runway was a domestic stage, mirroring a hallway from a flat. Coded language, references to Psalm 61:3, and the presence of occult numerology (613) marked this as a confession in couture. Widely interpreted as an emotional reckoning following the scandal.

2. Sister’s Mercy (2015)

   Inspired by convent uniforms and prison garments. All-black collection with crucifix motif belts and repurposed ecclesiastical fabrics. The finale featured a model with her mouth stitched shut in red thread. “This is not silence. It’s obedience,” read the show notes.

3. La Maison Inconnue (2016)

   Presented as a labyrinthine experience through rooms. Each model emerged from a different “door” on stage. Influenced by 1950s psychiatric hospital attire, featuring restraint-inspired draping and hospital-tag accessories. Whispered to reference her estranged daughters.

4. The Thirteenth Hour (2017)

   A collection that arrived unexpectedly in a capsule drop. All the looks were black, white, or deep blue, embroidered with the date 13/01/2013 and time stamps. Many believe it references an unspoken personal loss. Some garments contained scraps of hand-written prayers inside linings.

5. Apocrypha (2018)

   A dystopian reinterpretation of biblical scripture through minimalist tailoring. Pale robes, veiled faces, and coats fastened with wax seals. Featured collaboration with AI-generated Latin poetry.

🧵 Collaborations & Partnerships

Despite her reclusive nature, Whiteridge has collaborated with several legendary fashion houses and ateliers for special commissions and behind-the-scenes contributions:

• Chanel – textile innovation and spiritual-motif embroidery in Métiers d’Art series

• Dior – conceptual tailoring contributions for Cruise 2017

• Jean-Paul Gaultier – co-designed limited-edition post-couture vestments

• Maison Margiela – accessory line featuring invisible clasp bags

• Alaïa – leather-sculpted bodices for Apocrypha

👑 Cultural Influence & Reception

Fashion critics often describe Whiteridge’s work as “emotionally confrontational” and “ecclesiastical minimalism.”The house’s collections are collected by both celebrities and contemporary art museums.

Karl Lagerfeld, in a rare 2015 interview with Numéro, praised her as:

Whiteridge is also rumoured to have declined multiple offers to show at the Met Gala, stating only: “The dead don’t walk red carpets.”

📉 Ownership & Business Affairs

Kominsky Global Holdings (KGH) acquired a 20% minority stake in the maison in 2014 following a financial crisis triggered by litigation post-scandal. The investment, negotiated by Dame Charlotte Kominsky herself, included protections ensuring Whiteridge retained full creative control. Despite a long family feud, a business agreement was concluded between Ms Whiteridge and Dame Kominsky.

Another 20% is held anonymously through Azimuth Equity AG, a private Zurich-based hedge fund. The identities of the stakeholders remain speculative, with some linking the group to a London-based diplomatic trust. An ongoing lawsuit between Kominsky Global Holdings, known for its aggressive business practices, may change the ownership of the Maison des Peupliers and Azimuth Equity AG.

🏛️ Logo & Identity

The house’s emblem is a single poplar leaf growing inside the M, usually dark green, veined with gold, often stamped in wax or laser-cut into silk tags.